Saturday, 9 August 2014

Day 8 - Mettlach to Trier

Thursday, July 10th 2014  -  Day 8
Mettlach to Trier
50.4 km , 295.5 km so far
elevation gains:  290 meters 
Tracks for the day: 
Pleasant day, some sun, temp from 16 to 25 Celsius 
(The text is by Erika with pictures and captions/commentary added by Marvin in italics.)
Our path at the beginning of the day

Erika is wearing her "rain cap" but it wasn't really needed on this day.

When we got up this morning it was no longer raining but the sky was still grey and there were dark clouds on the horizon so we donned our rain gear once again and headed off down the trail. Fortunately, as the day progressed, the weather improved. As the weather improved Marvin started removing layers of clothes. Good thing it didn't get too hot before we got to Trier!
A shrine and a small chapel showed up on the trail as the day began


A chain hangs down just within reach, making it possible for me to ring the bell

Another view through the bars with the chain held out of the way

So we made this the bench of the day



Another part of the shrine

Unfortunately, we had to cycle on more of the red clay trail. It was still wet and splattered our once clean gear again. However, the area was beautiful and in no time we were cruising into the beautiful town of Saarburg.
While it wasn't actually raining, we had to deal with puddles and gritty conditions

Across the river is a mining operation.  I think they were mining iron, hence the colour of the soil.

The path crossed the river and that resulted in pavement again


We were cheerfully cycling down the path when the river took us around a corner. There in front of us was the castle, church and old city walls of Saarburg. At first we were not even sure it was Saarburg but, as I was leading the way, I turned into the town. I had read about the town and knew there was something in the town center I wanted to see.
First views of Saarburg



C'mon Marvin, let's go into the town
Once we were in town we found the town square but just before entering it I pulled over and walked up to a stone wall. Marvin got off his bike, walked up to me and said, "Is this what we came to see?" I told him to look over the wall and then enjoyed seeing his reaction as he discovered the waterfall that exists in the middle of town. It is hard to explain all the shoots and wheels that take advantage of the rush water that comes off the falls so I will have to hope that our photos speak for me. It was really lovely. 

Erika took this video of the water works
And I took this one  (Notice how they have a lot of controls to regulate how much water goes over a waterwheel and how much is redirected downstream.)



Maybe more pictures here than you want to see, but the town and the water really was lovely



The history of the waterfall
As it was noon we chose to pause at a conditori and enjoy the view while enjoying good old German baking with hot chocolate.
Ha ha, not exactly baking but Eis  and stroodle for me!
Some final pictures of the town and its waterworks



Couldn't resist taking a picture of a lovely marina

Seeing fishermen on the trail is not uncommon

The sign says a left turn will take us to Konz in 10 km !!  This is a big deal to us as Erika explains below

Nice park so we stopped for a snack


As always, I find locks fascinating when there are boats in them.  This one is waiting to go upstream

While this one is almost ready to leave going downstream

Once we were back on the trail we were excited to realize that in a few kilometres we would be reaching the confluence of the Saar and the Mosel. The whole idea of bike touring started first with our friends Steve and Dodie but the big kick start came when my father emailed me a slide show of the Mosel almost two years ago. Marvin and I were so excited by what we saw that we ordered the BikeLine book for the Mosel Radweg as it was in English.  The dreaming really began then as did some of the planning and preparing. Last summer we cycled on San Juan Island so I could practice distance cycling. Then we went to Pender Island so I could practice hills. Finally, we cycled the Wiilamette valley to ensure I could do bike touring and to test run gear and ability. Then good fortune occurred when the International Nurse Educators Conference was scheduled to occur after CPE in Holland. Wow, suddenly our dream started to look like it could be reality! So, there we were: about to  cycle up to the Mosel !

I made this video of the confluence

When we got to the confluence we just sat and enjoyed the sight. Of course we also took a lot of pictures of the best looking person I know... Marvin!
Actually, we had another group take a picture of the best looking couple from British Columbia on the Mosel that day

Looking downstream toward Trier from the bridge over the Saar as it flows into the Mosel

The park below the bridge where the video and the picture of us was taken from and where we left our water bottles, though we didn't know it yet.  To get onto the bridge we follow the path leading off to the left for a couple hundred meters and then a u-turn takes us up the ramp onto the bridge.  In the video of the confluence (the link above), right at the beginning you can see the bridge that we are now standing on.

Again, the MOSEL !!!  We just could hardly get over being there.

We were so excited to head down the Mosel Radweg that we forgot our water bottles. Fortunately we had not gone too far before some people we had met on the trail caught up to us and asked if the bottles they had seen were ours. Marvin quickly zipped back and picked up the bottles while I read over the maps and book on the Mosel Radweg. We were also pretty pumped when we found our first Radweg marker with the Mosel "M" on it!


Our first Mosel marker

And there it is!  Note what a beautiful afternoon it is by this time and we only have 10 km more to our next stop for the night.













It was while we were stopped taking pictures of our first "Mosel marker" that we had someone ask if we had left the water bottles.  We had just come down off the bridge, so I went back for them.  While I was gone, Erika took several pictures, including a couple of selfies.






She also got pictures of these very cool map signs



The ADFC referred to is the tour cycling organization of Germany.  They are the same organization responsible for the Bett und Bike book and reccomendations that we refer to elsewhere in this blog.  You find their website HERE

As we started down the Mosel, we came to a camping platz and a nice restaurant where we stopped for some refreshment, but not the kind depicted by the flag.  I got a kick out of the fact that they had several country flags with a bier stein thrown in.
The Mosel valley is very broad and flat at the section where we begin to follow it.


We zipped past Konz and before long were entering Trier. The first thing we saw as we approached Trier was the Roman Bridge. Five of the original nine pylons are still in place. Impressive for a structure built in the second century.
Also along the Radweg by the River are two round towers that at first Marvin mistook for windmills. It turns out they are old cranes that were used to load barges centuries ago. Before the next bridge I turned into town taking a tunnel that passed under the railway. It turned out that by following that route we cycled directly to the Porta Nigra. What an imposing structure that is!
Frankly, I was blown away by the awesomeness of this almost 2000 year old structure.  I had seen pictures of it but didn't look that closely at them and seeing it in person really took my breath away.  Lots of pictures to follow will be of this gate.

The Porta Nigra was built by the Romans in 180 AD. Its main purpose was to impress on the locals the might of the Roman Empire. It is still VERY impressive. Originally it was white but time caused it to blacken and therefore the name. It is also impressive to note that the entire structure was build using no mortar but by securing the shaped stones with metal braces. An amazing piece of work for any time.






It even dwarfs some pretty impressive buildings around it

Here at the information centre I got a Porta Nigra hatpin for my new hat


The city has many imposing churches and beautiful architecture but before doing much exploring we were off to find the hostel we were booked in. Yes, tonight we will be the oldest couple in a hostel. Luckily, we do have our own room. We will be sharing the bathroom with two other rooms but so long as it is free for my night time potty excursions, no problem!

We spent the evening strolling around town, ate a bratwurst in a bun for dinner, took more pictures of Marvin in front of beautiful buildings and fountains, and then finished the evening off with a wonderful wild berry eis for me and a mixed fruit eis for Marvin. We are now back in the hostel and I, for one, am ready to close my eyes and dream about tomorrow.

As a couple we have had many great vacations together but this one is so different. In many ways it is THE BEST VACATION EVER!!!!










Mmmm, cherries !



You don't see too many local drug stores that look like this here in Canada


I don't have captions for a lot of these.  I can't begin to keep track of all the names and different places in a city like Trier.  I just like to show pictures that remind me of the feel and wonder of the whole experience.





Really, it's just amazing poking around in various shops like these when they are housed in such incredible buildings









The Jews' gate




Back for some additional views of the Porta Nigra




I just kept taking pictures, I couldn't seem to take it all in.


My kids think I'm old as dirt.  Well, I'm sitting on a stone that is a lot older than the dirt around it :)


We explored a courtyard in behind the information centre where there were restaurants and they were setting up for some event



This is for you, Steve Miller.  Just in case you didn't collect one a few weeks ago when you were here.

There are remains of old walls everywhere, this is part of an old aquaduct


This is how we like to end our day


Beautiful park with lots of character that we walked through on our way back to the hostel








Cool looking goose!

Neighborhood playground, themed after the Porta Nigra

Tuesday, 5 August 2014

Day 6 and Day 7 - We take the train to Saarbrucken, stay in Bous, then on to Mettlach

Tuesday & Wednesday, July 8th-9th 2014  -  Day 6-7
Heidelberg to Saarbrucken by train
then cycle to Saarlouis, stay in Bous, 
then cycle from Merzig to Mettlach
32.6 km cycled on Tuesday,  228.6 km so far
16.5 km on Wednesday, 245.1 km so far
elevation gains:  174 meters on Tuesday
218 meters on Wednesday
Tracks for the days: 
Rainy off and on, temp from 13 to 17 Celsius 

(The text is by Erika with pictures and captions and comments in italics added by Marvin.)


Across from the bahnhof Julie showed us this crazy big sculpture
Better picture of Erika and Julie who is standing by my bike

To ride a regional train with bikes in Germany involves no extra cost or worries. You simply identify the car marked for bikes and get on. If there is a gap and your bike is loaded, others who want to get on or off quickly step in to help with the lifting. The train in Heidelberg was packed when we first got on so after saying good bye to Julie, we found ourselves standing and balancing our bikes as the train took off.


It was several stops before enough people disembarked and we were able to place our bikes and sit down.



The first leg of the trip took us to Kaiserslautern where we changed trains and headed on to Saarbrucken. 

While on the train, we got out the "anatomically correct" gingerbread men that the boys had made for us.  We enjoyed them very much and already started missing the boys

While waiting for the second train, we got out the rain gear, as it looked like we would need it before the day was over.

No rain pants to cover my knobby knees, but as it turned out, I found it much more comfortable to have bare legs when it was raining.

That train was not as full so we were able to secure our bikes and take a seat. A young man with a bike soon joined us. Frederic is a 26 year old university student in Kaiserslautern who commutes to school from Saarbrucken. We asked if he knew of a bike store near the bahnhof. We needed to get different peddles for my bike. We knew we would be cycling in rainy conditions and, due to my ankle being fused, my foot will slip off a wet pedal. We needed to pick up pedals with metal, spiky, grippy things to keep my foot in place and thereby keep me safe. Frederic didn't hesitate but immediately said he knew a few and would lead us to one as soon as we got to Saarbrucken.

That part of the train ride took about one hour which flew by as we chatted with Frederic about his travels in Newzealand and Australia. When we got off the train in Saarbrucken, rather than leave the train station the usual way, Frederic lead us on a path that is used to clear the town stadium quickly after games. He obviously knew the town well as he zipped down streets and through traffic to the bike shop. We managed to follow him and stay alive. We got a photo of him, thanked him then off he zipped on his bike. We did have his email but unfortunately it was on a piece of paper that got thrown out by mistake.
Our "Road angel" Frederic

The bike shop was the Radhaus am Rathaus, http://www.radhaus-am-rathaus.de/team.html and the service was excellent, cheerful and English. Patrick Philipp was the man who helped us and he had us in and out in no time with the new pedals on and a rain cover for my helmet. An added bonus for us was that he spoke English very well and with enough fluency to tease and joke.

In no time we were on our bikes and looking for the Saar Radweg. One thing I noticed is that traffic noise is louder in the rain. The city centre was very busy so I felt very motivated to get onto the trail. Once on the trail it was easy to relax and even the rain we were getting was not a problem as I discovered my rain gear was doing its job. Marvin discovered that the rain gear he had bought, and never removed from the package, was only a coat. Fortunately it is warm even with the rain so he wore the jacket and cycled in his shorts.
The symbol we were going to follow was the blue map piece

Erika gets her first taste of cycling in the rain.  If you want to call it a 'baptism' , today it was by sprinkling.  'Immersion' will come a few days later (spoiler alert :)


We decided to cycle through to Saarlouis. On the trail we had seen an ad for the Hotel Muhlenthal so when we got into Saarlouis and found the tourist information closed we gave them a call. This hotel is approved by Bett und Bike a German initiative to screen hotels for their willingness to support cyclists. Hotel Muhlenthal instructed us to cycle back to the Rathaus where the owner came and picked us up with his SUV that is equipped with a bike rack. They also stated that the next morning he would drive us back to where we were on the trail when we called them.

Once we were picked up we discovered we were being driven half way back to Saarbrucken to the town of Bous where their hotel was! Oh well, we were drying out and ready to relax. Next to the hotel is a restaurant where we enjoyed dinner after which it was time for the Germany/Brazil football game. Marvin watched the entire match but once Germany had four goals to zero I drifted off to sleep.
While we waited for the SUV to come pick us up, Erika wanted me to take a picture of this fast food stall sign.  She will have to explain what it was supposed to mean.  It just seemed like a funny play on words to us

Our room in Bous (in the foreground is one of the batteries for the bikes)



A really wonderful meal.  Our standard drink has become Apfel Schorle, which is apple juice mixed with carbonated water
In the morning after enjoying yet another great German breakfast buffet, our gear was once again loaded into the vehicle and we were on our way back to the trail in Saarlouis. However, when we unloaded our bike it was evident that something was wrong with my brakes. After the fellows fiddled with the bike for a while they thought they had the problem pretty much solved but, to me, didn't seem entirely sure. As we were going to be cycling in the rain I really wanted to know my brakes were in good order. Michael, the hotel owner who was driving us, said he knew someone who could fix the brakes. He offered to take us back to the hotel and give us use of our room until the bike was taken care of; after which he was willing to drive us up to Merzig, the town we should have gotten to by the afternoon.

So, by 2:30 pm, my bike was fixed and we were being driven to Merzig where we once again donned our rain gear and set off down the Saar Radweg.
Michael looks on while I get the bikes set up and ready to go.  He was such a cheerful host as well as all the help he gave us.  He had the most infectious laugh. 


As we head off in the afternoon, the rain was more constant but still not at all unpleasant.

I must say that despite the rain, it was nice to be back on our bikes. I now feel like I have been truly baptized as a tour cyclist and that is true whether you believe in sprinkling or baptism by immersion! I also now have real appreciation of good rain gear. When we were in Saarbrucken Marvin had bought me a rain cover for my helmet. Boy, was I glad I had it!


You can see here that the path is not all pavement.  It was firm and while there were puddles there were no soft spots.  So there was a lot of grit and splatter but no real mud.

We had been told that the route from Metzig to Mettlach was really lovely and we had made sure to check that it was all paved surface. We were assured it was.... It was not! By the time we got to Mettlach our bikes, panniers, shoes and pant legs were splattered with red clay. Oh well, we found another Bett und Bike recommended accommodation and the owner actually hosed our bikes off for us.

Mettlach is a small town by German standards of only about 8000 people. However, it does have a few interesting claims to fame. First is an impressive ?? Year old monastery on the water front. The other is the Villeroy and Boch factory and training school. Of course, there is an outlet store full of beautiful things but even more exciting is their Christmas store! Oh boy I could have had fun there but the reality of cycle touring is that you have absolutely nowhere to carry any shopping or gifts. This inability to pack along gifts has caused me some internal conflict as I am used to shopping for gifts for my family whenever I am traveling. Hope they still love me when I come home empty handed!
Had to cross a bridge under some construction to get into the town

From Wikipedia:  Saint Leudwinus, Count of Treves (Leodewin, Liutwin, Ludwin) (c. 660 -           29. September, 722 in Reims) founded an abbey in Mettlach. He was Archbishop of Treves and Laon.  His feast day is September 23. He is the patron saint of Mettlach parish and his relics are carried by procession at the annual Pentecost celebration through the town.


Tourboat that plies the Saar river

The place we stayed was the hotel Saarblick. Attached to the hotel was a restaurant and the owner, it turned out, was a master chef. Suffice it to say we had a great meal followed by a sound sleep!